K9 Clicking
Nipping
Nipping
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All puppies nip, mouth, and play bite. This is a normal part of puppy behavior and growing up. Puppies play with
each other by using their mouths. Unfortunately, they don't come programmed to understand that we humans have skin
that is more sensitive. Although puppy mouthing can be tiresome and painful, it is a VERY important part of puppy
development.
When puppies play together in the litter, they learn a lot through biting. If they bite hard, their litter mate will yelp. If
they bite too hard, their litter mate will yelp and then stop playing. Thus, the puppy learns that if it bites too hard, the
playmate will go away and the fun will stop. Learning not to bite hard is called bite inhibition. Puppies that are bottle-fed
or taken from the litter too early often have a harder time learning bite inhibition because of their lack of interaction with
siblings. This is one of the key reasons that puppies should not be taken from their litter until they are at least 7-8 weeks
old.
Bite inhibition is a very important thing for your puppy to learn. If a puppy does not learn bite inhibition, the results
can be disastrous as an adult dog. For example, say we accidentally step on our dog's foot. A dog that has learned bite
inhibition as a puppy may only snarl and/or lunge, but not bite. A dog that has not learned bite inhibition may give you
multiple deep puncture wounds. It is not that your dog doesn't love you, it is simply that your dog was reacting out of
instinct and had not learned bite inhibition. A dog without bite inhibition may be the most loyal, loving and obedient dog
in the world until it is injured or scared.
Another important part of bite inhibition involves interaction with other pets. Teaching your puppy good bite
inhibition is important if your dog will ever come into contact with other animals. A dog without good bite inhibition may
severely injure or kill a cat or small dog even if they are just playing. Bite inhibition plays an important roll in inter-dog
aggression. If a fight breaks out between two dogs, you will hope that both dogs have good bite inhibition or you may be
paying some rather large vet bills and lose a dog to injury.
We can teach our puppy how to have a softer mouth without using harsh corrections. Methods such as grabbing the
puppy by the muzzle and yelling, “NO”, or “NO BITE!”, thumping the puppy on the nose, scruffing the puppy, or other
similar methods are unnecessary, unkind, and while they may teach your puppy not to nip, they will also teach your dog
to be fearful of you and your hands. You may have a difficult time trying to medicate your dog later in life if you use
these techniques. These methods do not teach your puppy anything about bite inhibition. Some of these methods often
work against you as your puppy thinks it is a game to snap at your fingers when you are trying to grab or thump their
muzzle.
So how do we teach bite inhibition? First, we need to teach the puppy that humans only interact with calm puppies.
Only give your puppy attention when he is offering calm behavior. If he is jumping, nipping, barking at you or running
around, ignore the puppy. Don't even look at him. Once your puppy is acting calmly, then you can give him attention.
If you are playing with your puppy and he starts to nip, we will teach the puppy the same way it would learn from its
siblings. The puppy must be taught that humans are very sensitive and have a low threshold for pain. When the puppy
bites, yipe like a puppy or loudly say, “OUCH!” Pull your hand back as if you touched a fire and ignore the puppy. Most
puppies will be startled and stop nipping for a moment. When the puppy calms down and stops nipping, continue play. If
the puppy persists, or if it gets more excited, then immediately stop play, get up, and move away from the puppy. Very
quickly your puppy will learn that we humans cannot tolerate teeth on skin and if they bite, all of the fun stops. It may help
to tether your puppy with a leash to something or play next to a barrier such a baby gate so you can very quickly move
away from the pup.
Because children make quick movements, funny noises, and are small, they often excite puppies into bursts of biting
activity. Children and puppies should always be supervised when playing together! Children can hurt the puppy
unintentionally just as much as the puppy can hurt your child. Teach your child how to "be a tree" when the puppy starts
nipping. Reward your puppy with treats or toys when your puppy is playing nicely and remove your puppy from the play
if it gets too rough.
Substituting a chew toy is also a great way to help keep shark teeth off of you. Stuff a KONG with peanut butter or
put some kibble in a Buster Cube or Tricky Treat Ball. Keep a plush toy in your pocket. Give your puppy something else
to do besides chew on you!
If you are clicker training your puppy, here are some exercises you can do to help teach your puppy not to nip:
Want to learn more about puppy nipping or child safety? Visit these links:
each other by using their mouths. Unfortunately, they don't come programmed to understand that we humans have skin
that is more sensitive. Although puppy mouthing can be tiresome and painful, it is a VERY important part of puppy
development.
When puppies play together in the litter, they learn a lot through biting. If they bite hard, their litter mate will yelp. If
they bite too hard, their litter mate will yelp and then stop playing. Thus, the puppy learns that if it bites too hard, the
playmate will go away and the fun will stop. Learning not to bite hard is called bite inhibition. Puppies that are bottle-fed
or taken from the litter too early often have a harder time learning bite inhibition because of their lack of interaction with
siblings. This is one of the key reasons that puppies should not be taken from their litter until they are at least 7-8 weeks
old.
Bite inhibition is a very important thing for your puppy to learn. If a puppy does not learn bite inhibition, the results
can be disastrous as an adult dog. For example, say we accidentally step on our dog's foot. A dog that has learned bite
inhibition as a puppy may only snarl and/or lunge, but not bite. A dog that has not learned bite inhibition may give you
multiple deep puncture wounds. It is not that your dog doesn't love you, it is simply that your dog was reacting out of
instinct and had not learned bite inhibition. A dog without bite inhibition may be the most loyal, loving and obedient dog
in the world until it is injured or scared.
Another important part of bite inhibition involves interaction with other pets. Teaching your puppy good bite
inhibition is important if your dog will ever come into contact with other animals. A dog without good bite inhibition may
severely injure or kill a cat or small dog even if they are just playing. Bite inhibition plays an important roll in inter-dog
aggression. If a fight breaks out between two dogs, you will hope that both dogs have good bite inhibition or you may be
paying some rather large vet bills and lose a dog to injury.
We can teach our puppy how to have a softer mouth without using harsh corrections. Methods such as grabbing the
puppy by the muzzle and yelling, “NO”, or “NO BITE!”, thumping the puppy on the nose, scruffing the puppy, or other
similar methods are unnecessary, unkind, and while they may teach your puppy not to nip, they will also teach your dog
to be fearful of you and your hands. You may have a difficult time trying to medicate your dog later in life if you use
these techniques. These methods do not teach your puppy anything about bite inhibition. Some of these methods often
work against you as your puppy thinks it is a game to snap at your fingers when you are trying to grab or thump their
muzzle.
So how do we teach bite inhibition? First, we need to teach the puppy that humans only interact with calm puppies.
Only give your puppy attention when he is offering calm behavior. If he is jumping, nipping, barking at you or running
around, ignore the puppy. Don't even look at him. Once your puppy is acting calmly, then you can give him attention.
If you are playing with your puppy and he starts to nip, we will teach the puppy the same way it would learn from its
siblings. The puppy must be taught that humans are very sensitive and have a low threshold for pain. When the puppy
bites, yipe like a puppy or loudly say, “OUCH!” Pull your hand back as if you touched a fire and ignore the puppy. Most
puppies will be startled and stop nipping for a moment. When the puppy calms down and stops nipping, continue play. If
the puppy persists, or if it gets more excited, then immediately stop play, get up, and move away from the puppy. Very
quickly your puppy will learn that we humans cannot tolerate teeth on skin and if they bite, all of the fun stops. It may help
to tether your puppy with a leash to something or play next to a barrier such a baby gate so you can very quickly move
away from the pup.
Because children make quick movements, funny noises, and are small, they often excite puppies into bursts of biting
activity. Children and puppies should always be supervised when playing together! Children can hurt the puppy
unintentionally just as much as the puppy can hurt your child. Teach your child how to "be a tree" when the puppy starts
nipping. Reward your puppy with treats or toys when your puppy is playing nicely and remove your puppy from the play
if it gets too rough.
Substituting a chew toy is also a great way to help keep shark teeth off of you. Stuff a KONG with peanut butter or
put some kibble in a Buster Cube or Tricky Treat Ball. Keep a plush toy in your pocket. Give your puppy something else
to do besides chew on you!
If you are clicker training your puppy, here are some exercises you can do to help teach your puppy not to nip:
 | Shape the behavior: Begin by slowly moving your hand towards your puppy. If the puppy does not lunge and nip, click and treat (C/T) | |
| Gradually increase the amount of movement around your puppy's head as you C/T for not nipping. | ||
| Teach your puppy to hand target. Teaching your puppy how to offer a different behavior with your hand is very helpful in teaching | |
| puppies not to nip. Hold out your open hand, palm facing the pup. C/T when the puppy sniffs or licks your hand. Shape the behavior so the puppy is rewarded for touching your hand with his nose. Work up to holding your hand in different positions and teaching your puppy to follow your hand. | ||
| Hold a treat in your closed fist. Your puppy will try to nibble, paw, and chew his way into your hand. C/T the moment your puppy licks | |
| your hand. Your puppy will learn that licking is far more rewarding than biting. |
Want to learn more about puppy nipping or child safety? Visit these links:
| www.Doggonesafe.com - Stop Puppy from biting. | |
| www.Doggonesafe.com - Teaching children dog bite safety | |
| Dog Star Daily - Teaching Bite Inhibition | |
| Modern Dog Magazine - Puppy Socialization and Bite Inhibition | |
| Shirley Chong - The Well Mannered Dog | |
| Dog Spelled Forward - What are the Most Important Things You Can do for Your Puppy? | |
| Centers for Disease Control and Prevention - Dog Bite Prevention | |
| Nip Nipping in the Bud by Rebecca Lynch, KPA CTP, APDT |
